GATEWAY TO THE EAST
Napoleon once declared that if the world were all one country its capital would be Istanbul. Today, his astute observation has in part come true, for the city is about to begin its reign as 2010 European Capital of Culture. No wonder why. Its Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman architecture represents a magnificent backdrop for a major urban revitalization involving the conversion of ancient hammams intomodern-day spas, the re-flourishing of old industrial districts in the form of exciting nightlife and art crowd hotspots, and the rethinking of traditional kebabs as an irresistible epicurean treat. The classic sights to see are still the Topkapi, Saint Sophia’s Basilica, the Blue Mosque and the Yeretaban Cistern. As for new attractions, they include the Depo, formerly Tutun Deposo (or tobacco deposit), hub of the new international

art scene, and then the Rodeo Gallery, basically all about the work of local artists. For more info go to www.depoistanbul.net and to www.rodeo-gallery.com.
 

TRIP BACK IN TIME
At 7 p.m., a ferry departing the Eminonu terminal takes travelers on a romantic 15-minute voyage from Europe to Asia, between past and present. At sunset, the Bosphorus’ dazzling minarets and gold domes have the appearance of an enormous One Thousand and One Nights painting. The experience is an absolute must!

KEY ADDRESSES
While Sivasli Istanbul Yazmaci at the Grand Bazaar is the ultimate for carpets and fabrics, the Haaz Store in the trendy Besiktas quarter offers the finest

around in traditional accessories. Erkal Aksoy’s on the Cukurcuma hill has Uzbeki headcoverings and ancient mosque-shape cages. Then for more of a contemporary imprint there’s Gonul Paksoy, the place to find tribal jewelry, handsewn velvet slippers and small embroidered purses. Lastly, Pasabahce is ideal for household items, Roen famous for age-old beauty products (as in olive oil lotion and natural rose soap).
Almost dinnertime? The city’s most illustrious chef is Ciya Sofrasi, there always making it happen at the Dagdeviren specialized in local cuisine. And in fact, after an elegant makeover the kebab too is a feature at leading restaurants: the Komsu, a favorite among the local jet set; or the ultraclassy Mikla on the top floor of the Marmara Pera Hotel, complete with Scandinavian décor and once-in-alifetime panorama.